Showing posts with label organic gardening. Show all posts
Showing posts with label organic gardening. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 25, 2011

Why Bother?

I was on a gardening forum recently when a women posted that she wanted to grow an organic garden in raised beds built out of cedar. Her husband balked at the cost of cedar and shorter-lifespan of untreated pine.  He wanted to use treated lumber.  When I said I didn't understand using treated lumber in an organic garden, another poster didn't understand why anyone would pay 8x the price for a garden...why bother gardening at that point.

For decades pressure treated lumber was...well, treated...with chromated copper arsenate as a preservative.  Everyone thought this was the answer to all our problems...until research came out that arsenic leached into the soil.  Now, some studies said that there wasn't horizontal leaching (meaning, only the contact area near the wood was contaminated...not 20 feet away), others said there was more of an issue.  As far as I can tell, both sides agree that the soil is containmented for a very, very long time.  There was also some debate over how much arsenic the veggies absorbed and whether or not repeated ingestion of higher (but still small) levels of arsenic was hazardous to human health or not.  Regardless, the EPA banned it's consumer use several years ago.

The new pressure-treated-kid-on-the-block is ACQ: Alkaline copper quat.  There is no arsenic in this, just more copper, which does leach.  I've been to several ACQ lumber-manufacturer websites and they all say in the "safety" information

Do not use pressure-treated wood in circumstances where the preservative may become a component of food, animal feed, or beehives.


I'm having a hard time finding the USDA's official ruling on whether pressure treated lumber can be used in organic farms (maybe for hog pens, for example).  I have found that Ohio Ecological Food & Farm Association, a National Organic Program (NOP) certifier, does not allow pressure treated wood on new construction on organic farms. Because NOP certifiers are the ones that inspect USDA organic farms, I'm suspecting it isn't allowed.

Personally, I don't see the point in building a new raised bed with pressure treated lumber.  I can see the argument of just using a barrier if you inherited a pressure treated bed on your property.  However, the basic premise of organic gardening is to nourish your soil.  Having copper (a fungicide & insecticide) needlessly leach into your soil, in my opinion, isn't nourishing...it's potentially killing beneficials.  I don't really care if it's just on point of contact or not.  Leaching is leaching and it's the principle of the thing.

I'm not some elitist, though, that says you need to spend thousands on building raised beds instead of a few hundred.  Untreated pine is CHEAP and lasts about as long as the average homeowner plans to stay in their house.  Freecycle and Craigslist abound with cheap and free options for raised beds like cinder blocks, broken pieces of cement and scraps of cedar/redwood.  Then there's also the option of using hay bales.

So, why do I bother gardening with my pricey composite lumber boards? Because *not* gardening isn't an option.  Over the past few years, my garden has given me so many precious moments and delicious meals.  I remember when my first seeds sprouted-- it gave me the inkling of how a proud mama feels.  I remember our precious few strawberries which were the tastiest I've ever had (the chipmunks agreed).  Chocolate-dipped ground cherries remind me of being hugely pregnant, with empty cupboards, and needing something chocolate-y *right now*. 

I also garden to know where my food comes from...and to teach my child that baby carrots have tampered ends like "big" carrots and are not shaped like chubby thumbs.  Nothing tastes better than a home-grown tomato too!

And, finally, I garden to create a better environment around my house and my neighborhood.  I suppose this includes my ornamental garden as well.  Walking around my block it becomes clear that my neighbors don't have nearly as much wildlife in their yards. I see gold finches (and crazy looking birds I don't know their name!) in addition to the robins and crows and sparrows, a praying mantis climbed up my leg last summer and ladybugs are far more common now than when we first moved in.

These things make gardening worth more than the cost of my raised beds for me.  Your mileage may vary.

Monday, July 12, 2010

Organic Gardening Blues

After getting tomatoes earlier this year and having a much drier spring, I felt confident that the I was out of the woods with respect to tomato diseases. Unfortunately, this was not the case. I suspected a fungus had attacked 3 of my plants and had this confirmed at Merrifield's plant help desk. An organic gardener then faces a decision: Do I rip & dispose of these plants or do I succumb to using a conventional fungicide?

It's a really hard decision. To take out those plants means taking out all the canning tomatoes that I've nurtured for months. Plus, since I have a small garden, every space counts. Removal takes out 1/3 of my total tomato crop and 1/2 of my non-cherry tomato crop. But, if I did spray, the plants would have significantly less pesticides than conventional produce in the grocery store. However, then it's not an organic garden. Do I lose potential yield or do I go against my organic beliefs?

Ultimately, I did a hybrid approach: remove the plants with significant fungal issues and spot treat the plants near it with conventional fungicide (my husband actually did this). I'm not entirely pleased with this decision, but it's the decision I made. I feel like a bit of a hypocrite, honestly. Last year I also had fungal issues (and pulled out those plants) so I think going forward I'll only purchase seeds resistant to the common tomato fungi. And, of course, I'm going continue to be as sanitary as possible when handling my tomatoes.

Perhaps next year, then, this type of decision won't have to be made.

Friday, October 9, 2009

How To Deal with Pests

Of the garden variety, of course. Dealing with the cubemate that smacks their gum or the dude down the hall that uses speaker phone every.damn.time.the.phone.rings is 100% something I cannot help you with. But you have my sympathies.

My garden this year, mercifully, has been almost pest-free. However, I know that in future years I may not be so lucky. I had been hearing about integrated pest management (IPM). You know, that it was a great, holistic approach to controlling the creepy crawlies in the garden. So, I looked into it.

To be clear, IPM is not organic gardening. Chemical pesticides can be used in IPM practices as a last resort. But using IPM practices can be compatible with organic gardening. Basically, IPM is a process by which you first decide on your threshold tolerance for damage. Then, you monitor your plants frequently. Next, when you see damage, you identify the pest. After identification you move onto cultural (meaning growing environment), biological or chemical controls. And finally, at the end of the season you evaluate the effectiveness of what you did during the year and decide on what you will do different for the next season. It's an iterative process.

What does this mean? Basically every few days, you stroll around your garden looking to see any signs of damage. Then, if you see the damage, you figure out the cause and employ first cultural, then biological, and, if it comes to it, chemical controls to selectively eliminate your pest. Next, you evaluate how things went and how you can improve for the future.

Sounds so intuitive doesn't it?!? It also sounds familiar! Of the many books I read this winter to gear up for having a more successful garden, all of the organic ones suggested monitoring, doing preventative cultural practices and selectively eliminating the problem pest. The large difference from what I read in organic gardening books/magazines and IPM, aside, of course, for the permitted use of chemicals, was the evaluation part at the end. It totally makes sense when you hear it, but it's totally not something that occurred to me. I mean, I certainly have reflected on what plants were successful and which weren't, but pest management? Nope. Perhaps because it's more enjoyable to think about plants than bugs?!?

Below is an action plan I designed for the 4 most common pests in the DC/NoVA area. This year I, unbeknownst to me, I largely followed the monitor and cultural controls with very good results. Next year, I will work more on beefing up the biological before jumping into chemical (reaching for insecticidal soap is much easier than attracting ladybugs!!).

Click image to enlarge and print.

Monday, July 13, 2009

Powdery Mildew

(Excuse blurry photo. Blistering hot day + wind = little patience on my part!>>>)

Do your leaves look like baby powder has spilled on them? Or that they might be a tad bit dusty? Then, my friend, you've got powdery mildew. Sounds gross, right?!?

Well, that's because it is! It's a fungus. Think "athlete's foot" but for plants. Totally rank.

Here's a more mature account from GardenGuides.com:

Powdery mildew is a common disease on many types of plants. In fact, it is one of the oldest plant diseases on record - Theophrastis wrote of powdery mildew on roses in 300 B.C. Although different species of fungi cause the disease on different plants (Erysiphe infects vegetable crops and flowers; Podosphaera species infects apples and stone fruits; Sphaerotheca species infects berries, roses, some vegetable crops, and stone fruits; and Uncinula necator infects grapes), the infections are all characterized by a powdery white to gray fungal growth on leaves, stems and heads.

Contrary to popular belief, powdery mildew generally does not require free water to establish and grow. Infection can actually occur on dry leaves. Warm temperatures and shady conditions encourage the fungus to grow and spread. However, the spores and mycelium are sensitive to extreme heat and direct sunlight.

My beloved bergamot/bee balm/wild monarda have been plagued with the powdery mildew. It's not a complete surprise b/c they are susceptible, but I had tried to keep them in an area with good air circulation. Clearly, that was a garden FAIL.

But, powdery mildew is very treatable. Here are your options:
  1. Commercially available fungicide. Read the label & it should list powdery mildew as something it treats
  2. Home remedy of baking soda: Mix 1 tsp baking soda with 1 qt water & a few drops of liquid soap. Spray undersides & tops of leaves. The baking soda increases the pH of the leave surface & makes it an unsuitable growing environment for the fungus.
  3. Home remedy of milk: Mix 1-part milk to 9-parts water (DO NOT go above a 1-to-3 concentration. You'll then get a fungus of a different kind) & spray tops & bottoms of leaves. This works like option #2. Skim milk is preferred b/c it doesn't have the fat that could go rancid or attract critters.
And, how to prevent powdery mildew from happening next year?
  1. Remove fallen, infected leaves.
  2. Plant resistant varieties (too bad for me...I don't know of any resistant monarda varieties.)
  3. Plant in well-draining, sunny area.
  4. Don't crowd plants. Allow for good air circulation (this I am guilty of...the dahlias grew bigger than I had expected...)
  5. Disinfect tools used on infected plant to prevent spread to other plants.
  6. Water in the morning.
  7. Don't live in a humid climate! :)

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Nasturtiums & Aphids


So, I had heard & read that nasturtiums are a lovely companion plant for your vegetable garden. As a bonus, the leaves & flowers are edible.

So, I was sold! I planted 3 around my tomatoes. And they were quite lovely, although they didn't flower much in my fertile soil (apparently they like crappy soil...)

Thus far, I've enjoyed a mostly pest-free garden! Then, I noticed an army of ants marching through the garden. And I turned over a leaf of the nasturtium to reveal THAT (:::pointing excitedly to photo above:::). Aphids! Black Aphids! On ALL the leaves.

And then I google a bit more and...um...realize that that is what nasturtiums do: Attract black aphids. Le duh, you might say. Since the nasturtium was covered with aphids and kinda on its last legs anyways, I pulled it out & threw it away (aphids & all!). I gave it a little eulogy as I chucked it into the trash, thanking it for it's service in protecting my vegetables. It was a good plant, may it R.I.P.

I've done a bit more reading on the subject. Did you know that when planted next to squash to deter cucumber beetles? Or, did you know that when planted next to eggplant, flea beetles will munch on nasturtium instead?

Nasturtiums: More Than Just a Pretty Face.

BTW...Anyone got an idea on what the non-aphid, bigger critters are in the photo above?!?

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Busy, Busy Weekend. Full of Plants.


Happy Mother's Day to all those with spawn! With today being Mother's Day, you know what that means, right? Planting of the summer vegetables! Which, for now, are my babies. :)

It started out with pulling weeds which was infinitely easier given the 10 days straight of rain we've gotten. Most came out, roots & all, with a gentle tug.

Also, with the square foot garden don't-step-on-the-well-draining-soil mantra, I didn't even need a trowel to dig holes! After I dug said hole (with gloved hand), I put some water in the hole & then plopped in the plant, loosing the root ball when necessary. Next up, I surrounded the vegetables with crushed eggshells (most of my herbs aren't something that slugs would want to eat). Then, as another anti-slug measure, I sprinkled the area with Sluggo. Can you tell that I am anti-slug as well as anti-aphid?!? At least there is some preventative stuff you can do with slugs...

Which reminds me, so of my peppers STILL had aphids on them, the rat bastards. I planted some cilantro in the middle of them so hopefully that will eventually attract some ladybugs to the area (ladybugs feast on aphids). So, here's the garden plan(s):
(like the mood lighting?)

The Herb Garden. The middle part's plants are TBA.


And here it is planted:


The Vegetable Garden. Half isn't going to be used this year.


And here it is planted:


I ended up putting a row between the tomatoes & sweet peppers. Not sure if I'm going to plant there or place stones that I can stand on to easier tend the garden. The white pot contains a Old Fashion Rose scented geranium. It will live outside until winter, when I'll take it inside & put it near our sunniest window.

And just for fun the strawberry patch:

About a month ago


And now!


That's chamomile in the middle. Per the instructions on them, I'm snipping off the buds of all the junebearing this year in hopes of a bigger crop next year. I'll stop snipping off the buds of the everbearing mid-July.

Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Garden Vampires

Ugh. Things were going so well! The seeds I sowed on March 7th (has it really only been slightly more than a month?) have grown into sturdy teenage plants. Look at this tomato! What a handsome guy!


Then, last night happened. What 1980s kid remembers Bunnicula? (I remember having to read it in secret because mom didn't approve for some reason.( I thought that vampire-bunny was the only thing that sucked the life out of plants. Not true, my friends! Aphids are a *real* vampire of the garden.

I'm not quite sure how it happened...the soil was fresh and I haven't brought any new plants near the plantlets. Yet, there they were! The nasty brutes!

Aphids, the bastards that they are, are soft-bodied insects that suck the "juice" out of plants. (See, I told you! Vampires. Photo to the left is from Wikipedia) They are teeny tiny, can be white (mine are), green, black, yellow, and a light grey. Unfortunately for me, the reproduce like crazy and none of their natural predators (hopefully) live in my house. So, the only solution to me was insecticidal soap. You can make your own but I've bought a commercial brand. I've heard that some fragrances and dyes and such in soap could scrotch plants. So, if you decide to go the homemade route, make sure you go for something mild.

Luckily, I think I caught them during their first feast because the damage thus far has been minimal. So, I guess there's that. sigh.

Anywho, looks like I'll be on aphid patrol for a while. I'm going on vacation in a few weeks so hopefully they'll be all gone by then. Otherwise I fear I'll come home to a few dozen dead plants.

Here's a photo of some aphid damage and some aphids dying a slow death in some insecticidal soap (that's the wet stuff).


:(

Edited: I spoke with the guy at the plant clinic at Merrifield. Apparently, the only way an aphid could have gotten into my house was on my clothes or through an open window. Thus, when this freak infestation is over (he was surprised it happened), all should be well. And, I am happy to report the plants were clear this morning & this afternoon. Hurray!

Now, if this happened outside, I'd have more options on pest control. Like hosing the buggers off. Or getting ladybugs to have an aphid feast. Here's a great article from You Grow Girl on attracting ladybug (and deterring aphids) to your garden: article.